Alright if you think you've absorbed all you can from what I said above, than I'll continue.( I tried to wait longer before continuing, but I knew I would forget what I was saying
ops: )
Ok, as in reguard to this list....
1-Mugen full exhaust ( Header, high flow cat and catback )
2-Skunk2 Racing Intake Manifold
3-Spoon Sports
4-Either Spoon or Skunk2 camshaft
5-Skunk2 Silver Cam Gears
6-Skunk2 Valve Springs and Retainers
7-A'PEX V-TEC AFC Digital
It is a very very good list of high quality parts, but there is a few problems. First full mugen exaust is very very very expensive, as well as nearing impossible to get for a del sol inside the US. For those 3 parts you'r talking $1500 and Im sorry, but no matter how awsome it sounds, which it does (nice and quiet), or how cool it looks, which is certainly does, that is to much for parts that dont make any more power than most others costing 1/3 as much. The Skunk2 racing manifold was a good unit a few years ago, but today there are better, cheaper manifolds such as the edelbrock PerformerX manifold. A comparo I read on these 2 had the PerformerX Making 3 more torque and 8 more Hp on a modded GSR.(na) And considering its a bit cheaper, I say to go with that.
Gunna have to elaborate on #3... spoon sports, I think you left something off there
As for cams, Id recommend TODA, just because they have worked so well for me in the past. The all motor drag CRX my friends and me built as a project car in high school ran a B20 block with a B16 head. We started with Type-R cams but when we went with quad throttle bodies, they didnt have the flow we needed. We called alot of manufacturers and after hearing most peoples sales pitches, I was most impressed with what TODA had to offer. They make cams for any application, street or drag. However, for street setups, Id say Spoon or Skunk2 would be equally as good, if not marginally better, but they will be a little more expensive.
The cam gears dont really matter what brand you use, as long as they arnt a cheap set that will brake. Any name brand is good, like HKS, Greddy, Skunk2, AEM, Etc... they all make quality parts. Valve Springs and retainers is a good one though. Much at my own expense I have played with different Spring combos. Basically what I learned is that below 9000 RPM the stock Intake Springs work good with an aftermarket cam, but unlike the stock intake springs, the stock exaust pieces are single spring units.(the intake uses dual valve springs, which is a spring inside a spring, for more force) If you turn up your rev. limit or get after market cams, you will need to do one of two things. You will need to either get a full new set of Exaust springs for Intake and Exaust cams, or if your not going above 9 grand, just get a set of stock intake valve springs and put them on the exaust side, they work fine. As for retainers, the Civic Type R units are a little cheaper than after market units, and work just as good, but they are hard to find, so I cant really recommend them above after market ones. Again the stock retainers are fine with a stock cam below 9k. Above that you risk damage and will need to upgrade.
As for the last piece, the super V-AFC, there is no arguing this is best unit this side of full aftermarket ECU's. In my experience, unless your really going for power or 13.0 comp. with 12,000 rpm, the stock ECU works great, with some AFC help. I say this unit is damn near a must!
::deep breathe:: alright.... As for things he did not mention on an all motor set up, this is what I would suggest.
1) AEM cold air intake. I dont know what they do, or how they do it, but time and time again, the AEM units make more power, more torque and sound better than any other intake, bar none. I've custom made 4.5" alluminum intake pipes, with AEM filters on the end, and they still make a few Hp less at the wheels. Im an AEM fan for life... they just Rock!
2) Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. B&M, Vortech, AEM. All good units. When changing cams, and I/H/E, always a little more power to be made with this item.
3) Bosch 255 Fuel Pump. Cheap, Reliable, more fuel than you'll ever need, and a big step up from stock. If you plan on doing anything past 165-170 WHP with a B16 or Ls-Vtec, this unit is a must. (B16b's and B18c's can go a little higher, around 180-200, before they start requiring this part)
4) Exaust. (was mentioned but heres my 2 cents) My suggested Company for this is Greddy. Greddy's SP2 system is cheap and very quiet... almost stock. Doesnt sound like rice, and makes good power. For headers, the Stock units are so well designed for B series Vtec motors, A port job will make just a few Hp shy of aftermarket units. Considering Headers are $300-$500, unless you have to have that underhood shine, deal with the rust and port out the insides. For cats, Catco makes cheap universal cats that just need some flanges welded on. A weld shop will chop your stock cat flanges and install your new cat in an hour or so and charge less than $100. However, all together this part will cost you around $300-$350, and will only make 1-4 hp. As long as you dont tell anyone, putting a $40 straight pipe in is good for more power
5) Gauges. For all motor cars, with an V-AFC (which covers as an A/F ratio gauge) really the only after market guage I would recommend is Oil Pressure Gauge. Even more so for Ls-Vtec engines, where oil passages can be blocked if improperly built.
6) Short Throw Shifter. Ok not an engine piece, but I put on in my car, and it is seriously the best thing I have ever done to a car. The Stock honda tranny already shifts like butter, but the throws are a bit far and are too effortless. An aftermarket unit will tighten up the shifts, giving them shorter, more precice feel. I just love shifting my car now, It feels almost as good as an S2000, which is a huge compliment.
Arg.... ranting again, Il get into forced induction and wieght reduction and head porting and nitrous and all that stuff later. Right now I need a Hot Pocket brake
which is better Vtec or non Vtec
.. I know I might have not been very clear in that point.. my bad..
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