My MN12 updated on March 24th I sold my baby :(

[T-Bird]

well Tomorrow I should have an update with the exact problem that occured.

[hemi_fan]

what are the specs on the new engine?

[T-Bird]

what do you mean by specs? dimensions and what not? because it is the exact same exterior wise to a normal 4.6 although it is a more modern head and intake design from the 99-up Mustang engines so they flow better obviously I will be putting on a better flowing intake plenum and TB and full length headers. they say around 525-550 crank depending on injector size and intake exhaust setup.

[RC45]

550hp on pump gas from a 4.6 l without any forced induction?

Hhhmmm... what crate engine is this?

[T-Bird]

It's a custom order job but basically it's a high compression 4.6 SOHC with ported and polished PI heads. it will have 30lb injectors with a ported intake manifold a C&L trueflow intake plenum 75 mm TB, 70 mm MAF, Cold Air intake, Long Tube Headers, aggresive cams, I will have a full Dyno tune on it, underdrive pulleys, lightweight Flexplate, everything is Forged on the bottom end, they said it had oversized valves but I'm not too sure what sizes but this is costing me roughly 8 grand of mine and my dad's money so this will not be a daily driver but a track car. The biggest problem is that the damn car still weighs 1.5 times as much as your car or any Mustang and that's what sucks but the fact that the engine will appear fairly stock is always nice. oh and BTW I didn't say on pump gas

In all honesty I am still debating if I want to go that route because after looking around today I can get a nice 300hp crate motor for $2500 and just put all that crap into it and a blower for the same price and still get the same results and I do love me the sound of a nice FRPP or Kenne Bell. I have another week to decide according to the builders and all I will lose is my $500 deposit. I've been talking with my dad and seems to think that's the sensible way to go and I am seriously thinking about it what are your opinions? should I save the money and use it somewhere else on the car like the tranny and possibly a roll cage or all on the motor which probably won't pass emissions? all comments and opinions wanted.

[T-Bird]

yeah I have a kit in mind actually but it's about 3 grand for it all. it includes a new master cylinder, 6 piston calipers in the front with 13 inch rotors and 2 piston rotors in the rear with 11.5 inch rotors all with stainless lines and it comes with a bottle of blue racing brake fluid.

The suspension is going to be the next thing on the list after the engine swap is done since I can get a really good deal on some eibachs and koni's and all the other parts I'll be getting from various sources.

My dad is really pushing me to go with the cheaper engine for obvious reasons. and I'm thinking about going with it now it's 300hp out of the box (not that much but it's only $2500 and 60 over the one I had in it) and I'll run that for a little while to break it in then go for the power adders from there.

[dangerously_cool]

I think you should go for the cheaper engine, only because I can imagine you like driving the thing a little more than at the track.

By the way, what's the compression on the other one? It must be crazy-high to make that much power, but if you can't drive it at all on the streets maybe it's better to get the 300hp and blow it. Is this one related at all to the DEW95 (isn't that platform of the current one?) Mustang? If so, I've heard that KB already has a kit for it.

[T-Bird]

well Iactually have the engine right now sitting at my Dad's shop waiting for me to go pick it up tomorrow and take to the shop so the work can begin I ended up going with the insanely cheaper one and it has alot of stuff that is going directly to Ebay it isn't the new 3 vavle style since those will run you close to 6 grand right now for them since they are busy making them for the back ordered Mustang GT's so getting one is both hard and expensive and getting a used one is just as hard because everybody is trying to grab them up. My only problem with the KB blowers is that I would need to get a higher hood I can get the FRPP one and it will barely clear my stock hood and since I am going for the stock look I will most likely go that route but you never know in a few months I may just say F-it and get a new hood that isn't too much higher. Currently my concern is getting this thing in there which will reguire a lot of cutom wiring which I can do no trouble but it is time consuming. After that my main concern is weight this thing weighs just too much to go seriously fast so I will be stripping out all the sound deadening material and other crap (good for roughly 250lbs according to a few sources that have done it) and the new engine is good for 100lbs a new fiberglass hood is good for atleast 20lbs rear seats another few etc

[dangerously_cool]

Well, I think you did the best thing, both financially and for the car. Another thing you could look at, of course depending on what you like is aftermarket rims. Because you're going for the sleeper look you needn't get something huge (benefit is it's also cheaper that way), and you'll get rid of some unsprung weight, which is very helpful in increasing acceleration, seeing as rotational inertia increases dramatically when more and more weight of the wheel is not centered on the rotational axis. While you're at it, does anyone make a lighter trunklid?

I think you've definitely got a point, most aftermarket cowl hoods tend to look, well...poorly planned out. Staying clear of a big roots blower might help you avoid that.

[T-Bird]

well I plan on getting some CobraR replica wheels that are 17x9 both for looks and clearance for brakes. I doubt anyone makes a lighter hood but I could probably reskin that one in Aluminum or even a custom fiberglass CF is too expensive for the results unless you make a whole body from it. the nice thing about my dad having a Metal fabrication shop is that I can get most of what I need from him in terms of metal work and custom brackets etc... the problem is that the aftermarket isn't that big for us T-bird Cougar guys so we have to make stuff fit like buying Cobra rear suspension bits and rear gears aswell, then Aluminum drive shaft from a Crown Vic Interceptor, engine from a 1999-up 4.6 equipped car Explorers are the best being Aluminum but at a price obviously and the lowest HP tune aswell after you get all those parts aftermarket is easy just get parts for a Mustang or Cobra where aplicable oh and Mustang spindles all around for better brake and wheel options. You have to get creative when working with cars no longer produced and it confuses the hell out of people at the shop when you tell them the what the car is but then tell them but it isn't what the parts are.

[dangerously_cool]

That sounds like it's confusing as hell to me too. Well it's good that you have resources above and beyond most people though. Without being able to get rid of the stock hood/trunk you can still get a lot of weight. The rear seat alone should do what, 50 pounds? New lighter rims / new tires can get rid of 20 pounds at least, and that weight is much more important, and then if you just nickle and dime it, I'm sure you can get rid of a lot. How much does it weigh? I'm guessing 4000 pounds? If you can drop 200 pounds, you're to the weight of a Cobra, which can still run a ten second quarter mile with work, so it's not impossible.

Oh here's a thought, since you saved the money from the other engine, would another transmission, maybe a used Mustang's tranny, fit on the engine/ without needing custom work? That'd be pretty nice.

[T-Bird]

well the automatic in the stang is the exact same tranny I have an only a T-45 would fit without major work to the tunnel and honestly I can live with a well built auto especially if I took it to the strip.

[dangerously_cool]

All depends on how fast you take it...then again you won't have my problem, will you?

[T-Bird]

well If you ever look into an Automatic you know a lot of shit can go wrong but with the right parts an Auto will outperform and be more consistent than a Manual at the strip and no danger of stalling out at the line (seen it a lot) I will have to change my Halfshafts soon aswell I am looking into some Raxles they are pretty good.

[dangerously_cool]

I've seen the stalling, that's pretty bad though...and most drivers aren't that nub.

I admit I don't know a lot about automatics, but I don't know much about transmissions either. I know mine's on the floor, and it bled a lot.

How many miles does your auto have on it anyway? You mentioned a properly built one, so I assume you're going to look into that. What kind of times are you shooting for anyway?