LS7 Crate Motors... already being delivered - $11,000!!!

[nthfinity]

Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix The biggest difference one will notice between a 505HP LS6 and an LS7, is tha the LS7 will have a much flater tq curve, and the LS7 is a dry sump hehe.

its goofy to think of a 5.7liter v8 as 'peaky' LOL

[SilverPhoenix]

Originally Posted by nthfinity Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix The biggest difference one will notice between a 505HP LS6 and an LS7, is tha the LS7 will have a much flater tq curve, and the LS7 is a dry sump hehe. its goofy to think of a 5.7liter v8 as 'peaky' LOL

lol true enough, but the dyno sheets don't lie, the LS2 and LS7 have far flatter tq curves.

[RC45]

Yes and no.

Yes because it is still a GM Small block... no because there are a number of auxiliary systems needed that will probably require custom fabrication - the oiling system being one of them.

There are a couple of 500+hp crate motors that would probably be a more direct bolt in applicaiton, but you can bet your last dollar that there are quite a few LS7 transplants under way or in th planning stages already.

[SilverPhoenix]

Originally Posted by brembo Not scared about things like the oil system, thats just to modify to make it fit.... things like AC and such are just added weight so if that would be a problem it just have to go..... Well first things first...finding the car....

Well ever since the 1st LS1 it has always been the wiring and computer system, but there are probably going to be heaps of stand alone systems, and mebe even like the Ls1 someone will develop and sell a carb kit for it lol.

[SilverPhoenix]

Originally Posted by brembo If this engine becomes a possible as an install Im not about to put carbs on it....not going to make it older tech....

well it may be older but not worse hehe, some people got a better outcome with carbs for their build than an FI. FI doesn't neccessairly mean a more powerful engine just a more flexible one that adjusts better to changing conditions, Some powerful racecars still use Carbs. It's not like carbs have sat still ever since FI, but I also would go for FI =P especially if I can get ITB's, they just look so nice.

[RC45]

Look how cheap the C6 Z06 brakes (the ones that haul it from 60 to 0 in 100 feet) are...

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...&partnumber=C6

GM PART # 19121788 CATEGORY: Wheel Brake Cylinder/Caliper PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00 GM LIST: $329.60 OUR PRICE: $187.87 DESCRIPTION: CALIPER

GM PART # 19121787 CATEGORY: All PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00 GM LIST: $153.91 OUR PRICE: $87.73 DESCRIPTION: ROTOR

GM PART # 19121809 CATEGORY: Brake Pads and Shoes PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00 GM LIST: $337.74 OUR PRICE: $192.51 DESCRIPTION: PAD KIT

This is a good time to be in the Hot Rod hobby...

Then compare to the C5 Z06brakes (60-0 in about 112ft)

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...&partnumber=C5

GM PART # 88895128 CATEGORY: Wheel Brake Cylinder/Caliper PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00 GM LIST: $177.52 OUR PRICE: $88.77 DESCRIPTION: Z06 LEFT FRONT CALIPER Z06 Brake Calipers For added distinction, the wheels of the Z06 are designed to show off eye-catching Torch Red brake calipers - at rest and especially in motion.

GM PART # 88926732 CATEGORY: All PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00 GM LIST: $80.72 OUR PRICE: $40.36 DESCRIPTION: Front LH Rotor cross-drilled and slotted

GM PART # 88909667 CATEGORY: Brake Pads and Shoes PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00 GM LIST: $115.68 OUR PRICE: $57.84 DESCRIPTION: Front Ceramic Pad Kit Ceramic Disc Pads Great braking performance with less brake dust

[dutchmasterflex]

i need to start saving my money.

[RC45]

Over at the Z06 Forum, one of the guys already took delivery of his "Project Car" LS7...

Originally Posted by 99blackFRC We just received ours yesterday.. $12,5k from Gene at Fred Beans. Some pics:

[graywolf624]

Look how cheap the C6 Z06 brakes (the ones that haul it from 60 to 0 in 100 feet) are.

Hopefully they last longer and are safer for track use this time...

*shudders remembering Andis split rotor after a lap of road atlanta.

[RC45]

These are the street issue brakes....

[graywolf624]

I realize.. The 04's rotors with hawk blue pads had a tendancy to split up the middle under track use. 2 years ago at road atlanta andi came off the track with a split up the entire top half of the rotor. I spent all nite finding him a replacement rotor.

[RC45]

Yeah - '04 the street rotors (which I run) will last a session or two of track abuse. At $40 a pop from GMParts and $28 a pop from NAPA they are really a consumable. (cheaper than brake pads )



The guys down here just tak 3 or for sets of rotors and pads with them to track events.

I have seen a very upset Porker TT wner with fractured carbon metallic whatchamacallit rotors... the difference was he was facing a $3000 bill

[graywolf624]

Consumables great till it blows on the track as his did.. then it can be scary..

Not to mention it basically rules out open track challenge and other series where you carry your spares.. Youd need a trailer full of rotors to compete.

[RC45]

Not really - the actual number of catastrophic failures is really low. The rotors that I have heard of all had a previous street life and may have been suspect.

The other option that works very well for a number of racers is the cryo-treat the stock rotors and stick to a proper warm up cool down regimen.

An opinion of a respected Z06 Track Car prepper...


Williams GT Engineering @ www.WilliamsGTEng.us
F1 Technology, Parts and Preparation for Competition Corvettes
AMSOIL Online Store

Originally Posted by DJWorm Here's my personal experience with the C5 Z06 rotors. 1. The original OEM Non cryo'd rotors were toast after after 2 track days (Sat/Sun). Disposable throw aways. 2. I replaced them with: - a set of OEM rotors from Chevy - the last set of T1 rotors available (These are essentially OEM's with fatter cheeks..same matallurgy) 3. I Cryo'd both sets of new rotors (3 step cryo and final heat treat) plus performed a Meta-Lax subharmonic stress relief on them. These have NOT been Extrude Honed or coated. 4. I run Cooling duct extensions and Spidel ducts and have an MPC mister that lowers inlet air 30 degrees 5. I use one set as the primary rotors and the other set as track back-up. I exchange the rotor sets back and forth every 6 mo. 6. I do at least 1 high speed track event per month (DE, Hillclimb, Solo I Time Trial) and 2 Solo II events a month and drive the car occasionally during the summer (26,000 mi tot.). Plus I run a co driver(s) so the brakes are well used. 7. I use Carbon/Kevlar KFP Pads which are rotor friendly but stop the car on a dime. 8. So that's roughly 12,500 mi per set of rotors in 4 years and they are about half life with NO cracking or warping. Cryo process cost me $25/rotor ($200 total racer net) through a sponsor. Well worth the money. I had expected to get 10,000 mi from each set but it looks like I will replace them when they reach 15,000 mi each. Had I not Cryo'd them I would have gone through at least 13 sets of rotors so far...maybe more.

[graywolf624]

Not really - the actual number of catastrophic failures is really low. The rotors that I have heard of all had a previous street life and may have been suspect

The rotor being split in half like I discribed I would define as a catastrophic failure, even if it didnt explode quite yet. In Andi's case the rotors only street usage was the drive from dallas to atlanta, which he used to break in the pads/rotors.