Professionals always make everything look easy. Surfing, especially at that caliber, is very difficult.
And not only that, you've got to get over your fear of getting slammed into sharp coral.. oh yea, and drowning..
I went surfing once couple of summers ago in Hawaii.. waves weren't that big but the few that I caught were great. You get an amazing sense of power from the ocean.
I cant imagine the feeling this guy must of had when riding that powerful wave.
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